Atmos Sibral Insulation for Small Door - Thin

Product detailed description

- for the lower door of boilers with a ceramic ball chamber and ceramic door shutter (except DC105S and DC150S) - i.e. for the following boilers:

DC18S (ball-chamber version), DC100, CxxS, CxxST, ACxxS, DCxxRS, DCxxGS, DCxxGSE, DCxxGD, DCxxGSX, GSxx, GSXxx, KCxxS, DCxxR

- for the middle door of three-chamber boilers of the type DCxxSP(L), DCxxSPX(L), CxxSP(L), DCxxGSP(L), ACxxSP(L), KCxxSP(L)

On the door’s Sibral insulation of these boilers there is also a ceramic door shutter - a half-moon shape - which, when the door is closed, fits into the ceramic ball chamber, sealing it. You can find this door shutter here: Door shutter - half-moon

This Sibral insulation can also be used for the upper door of coal-fired boilers CxxS, CxxST - however, the screws need to be shortened to M6x35, since here the screws only hold the Sibral itself without the door shutter.

Original Sibral Insulation for the Small Door, Atmos S0251 - thin:

• Thickness: 32 mm
• The package includes 2 washers and 2 M6x65 mm screws

Note:
If you need to replace the Sibral door lining on your boiler, you will likely also need to replace the sealing cord located in a separate groove around this lining. You can order the sealing cord for the small door here: 18x18 sealing cord for the small door

Frequently asked questions

• How do I choose the right output for a solid-fuel boiler? Base your choice on the calculated heat loss of the heated building; for wood/coal boilers also consider that the boiler burns for several hours at essentially constant output during a single load - which is why it's common practice to add a buffer (accumulation) tank to the boiler, storing surplus heat for later use instead of having to inefficiently throttle the boiler.
• What else do I need to install this boiler? Besides the boiler itself, the system usually requires: a buffer (accumulation) tank of adequate volume, a circulation pump (often already fitted with a built-in Laddomat or thermoregulatory valve against low-temperature corrosion of the boiler), a safety valve, an expansion vessel, and a flue/chimney with sufficient draught matching the boiler's output - you'll find the exact chimney draught values in the technical parameters above.
• What fuel is suitable, and what isn't? Use only fuel recommended by the manufacturer for the given model (typically split logs of a defined length and moisture content, or brown-coal briquettes or coal depending on the boiler type) - unsuitable or overly damp fuel reduces efficiency, increases tar and deposit build-up, and can damage the boiler.
• What about chimney inspection and legislation? Before putting the boiler into operation, and regularly during its use (typically once a year for solid fuels), the chimney must, by law, be inspected/cleaned by an authorised chimney sweep - without the relevant inspection certificate, an insurance claim in the event of a fire may also be disputed.
• How much maintenance does the boiler require? This usually includes regularly removing ash and cleaning the heating surfaces/flue-gas passages of soot (interval depending on intensity of use, typically on the order of weeks), plus a thorough annual inspection including seals and the chimney.
• Can I install the boiler myself? The actual placement and connection of the boiler to the heating system, chimney and safety components should be carried out, or at least professionally checked, by a heating technician - this is an appliance with an open flame, high temperatures and pressurised components, where a connection error can be a safety risk.